Fashion Week in Two of the Chicest Cities in the World: A Review
An image from Madrid Fashion Week from 2017 where models showcased the upcoming fall and winter trends. Image credit: Cristina Cifuentes on Flickr
While it seems that everyone longs for winter to end, designers all over the world are gearing up for the next time it arrives. February is the month where the biggest names in fashion release their creations for the coming year’s fall-winter season, with fashion weeks in colorful and creative cities. In both New York and London, social activism and inclusivity have permeated the once-exclusive business. Here’s a look into some of the creative ways designers tackled social issues using the best medium possible: clothes.
New York
The fashion capital of the U.S. packed a big punch this spring with various social commentary embedded in amazing ensembles. Newcomers championed diversity in their shows as Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief at Vogue, explained in an article from her magazine: “I think the idea of what is beautiful and who can show clothes, who can wear clothes, who can express a designer’s point of view has so changed. New York has really been at the forefront of that.”
Chromat’s neon-hued swimsuit show challenged bikini stereotypes and shed light on the pressing issue of climate change. The brand’s founder Becca McCharen-Tran noticed the staggering impact of climate change after relocating to Miami from New York. McCharen-Tran deliberately shed light on this issue by adding waste often found in oceans to her designs.
Image credits: Filippo Fior/gorunway.com on Vogue
Image credits: Filippo Fior/gorunway.com on Vogue
In the top photo, Soda cans and plastic waste dangle off of this Chromat creation. In the second photo, a disabled model walks down the runway. McCharen-Tran is known as a champion of diversity, as she often chooses models who do not fit traditional beauty norms.
The Telfar show was wildly popular, as well. The clothes had classic Americana vibes: bootcut pants, jean jackets and big buckle belts.
Babak Radboy, creative partner at Telfar, said in an article on The Cut: “...It’s been about taking the language of appropriation and redirecting it, appropriating images of colonization, of manifest destiny, the narrative of natural rights...”
Radboy also noted in the article that the ideas stem from a deeper understanding of who gets to determine what American fashion is. Founder Telfar Clemens closed the show, wearing the brand’s Black Lives Matter shirt that raises money for the nonprofit.
Image credit: Courtesy of Telfar on Vogue
Two models wear the same outfit as a representation of androgyny and uniformity.
Image credit: Courtesy of Telfar on Vogue
London
All eyes were on London this season. Many feel that it has fallen behind compared to the other fashion weeks, but this year many designers made powerful statements that drew everyone in. The politics of London’s fashion shows, though, was unique given the uncertainty of the nation. Some designers chose to tackle at-home issues in their designs, like Burberry and Brexit, while others opted to comment on more widespread social issues, like Marta Jakubowski’s #MeToo-inspired runway.
The quintessentially British brand Burberry is one of the biggest names in London during Fashion Week. Burberry has been open with the public about the negative implications a no-deal Brexit will have on its business, including supply chain disruption and steep tariffs. So, when a Burberry model strutted down the runway donning a billowing Union Jack, many spectators saw it as a commentary on the current political climate. The other outfits, however, avoided political symbols. The rest of the showcase exhibited Burberry’s trendy and sporty new look, with many of the models wearing sneakers and sweatshirts.
Image credit: Alessandro Lucioni/Gorunway.com on Vogue
Image credit: Alessandro Lucioni/Gorunway.com on Vogue
In the top photo, one of Burberry’s iconic designs from the fall show: the Union Jack coat. In the bottom photo, the Fall 2019 Burberry collection featured athletic chic looks that mix sports with haute couture.
The Marta Jakubowski show was praised for its commentary on female sexuality and feminist liberation. The designs were long and and flowy, yet tailored and shaped to resemble pantsuits. Contrasting concepts of design were not the only elements of juxtaposition in her show. Models carried Anthurium flowers in their mouths as they walked down the runway, yet Jakubowski’s show notes ended with this phrase: “she will not be silenced.”
